Budget Micro FPV Drone Build Under $60
Safety first
- Always install the VTX antenna before powering on the flight controller to prevent VTX overheating.
- Be cautious when soldering motors with non-silicone wire insulation, as it can melt easily.
- Avoid applying excessive heat to components during soldering to prevent damage, especially to plastic plugs.
- Ensure motor mounting screws are not too long, as they can damage motor windings.
- Always remove propellers before configuring or testing motors in Betaflight.
- Do not cheap out on battery chargers; use a quality charger and a fire/smoke-proof battery bag to prevent LiPo battery fires.
Tools
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Flux
- Helping hands
- Pliers
- Flat snips
- Multimeter
- 99% Isopropyl alcohol
- Toothbrush (for cleaning board)
- Smoke stopper
- Fan (for cooling quadcopter)
- Micro USB cable (data transfer capable)
- 3D printer (optional)
- Bolt kit (optional)
Parts & materials
- Transmitter (Radio Master T8L (ELRS version))
- FPV Monitor (5.8 GHz monitor (with replaceable battery, DVR, tripod mount, replaceable antennas) OR SkyOne Cobra SD goggles)
- Charger (Vifly 1S LiPo Charger (0.1-1.3A, PH 2.0 & BT 2.0) OR USB 1S LiPo Charger (2A/6A, PH 2.0))
- 1S LiPo Battery (Turnigy 500mAh)
- 1S LiPo Battery (Tattu 550mAh)
- 1S LiPo Battery (BetaFPV Lava 680mAh)
- Frame (Beta FPV Twiglet 2-inch)
- Flight Controller (MEPSKing All-in-One 7A (with built-in ELRS receiver, VTX 50mW, BT 2.0 lead))
- 4 Motors (No-name 15,000 KV)
- Propellers (4-bladed 2-inch)
- Camera (Cadex Ant Nano)
- Canopy and battery mount combo (3D printed)
- 4 Screws (M1.4x3mm (for motors))
- 4 Rubber grommets (for flight controller)
- BT 2.0 battery connector (if replacing PH 2.0)
- Heat shrink tubing (for motor wires)
- Camera plug (from camera kit)
- Bolts (for camera, from camera kit)
- Prop guards (optional, from Meteor 75 Pro frame)
- Longer bolts (5mm long, for prop guards)
- Smaller propellers (45mm, for prop guards)
- 3D printed monitor mount parts (optional)
- Menace RC Omni antenna (optional upgrade)
- Menace RC Patch antenna (optional upgrade)
Steps
Step 1 · 06:41 in the video
Plug the flight controller into your computer and open Betaflight to perform a sanity check. Ensure everything is working properly before soldering. This helps identify any defective components early.
Step 2 · 07:08 in the video
Attach the VTX antenna to the flight controller. Failure to do so can cause the VTX to overheat.
⚠ If you don't attach the VTX antenna, it could overheat the VTX.
Step 3 · 07:29 in the video
Plug in a 1S Lipo battery to the flight controller, then connect the flight controller to the computer via USB. In Betaflight, select your device and connect. Move the board around to ensure its movement corresponds with the on-screen avatar. Check the firmware version (e.g., 4.4.2) and verify the video transmitter tab shows the device is ready.
Step 4 · 08:08 in the video
Remove the motor plugs from the motor wires. Gently squeeze the plug back and forth with pliers until it slides out. Then, bend and break off the small metal prongs to leave bare pads for soldering.
Step 5 · 08:38 in the video
Install the rubber grommets that came with the flight controller into the corners of the frame.
Step 6 · 08:43 in the video
Place the canopy over the flight controller and secure both to the frame using the four screws provided with the canopy, screwing them in from the bottom.
Step 7 · 08:55 in the video
Mount the motors to the frame using M1.4x3mm screws.
⚠ The biggest mistake is using screws that are too long; they can go into the motor windings and ruin your motor.
Step 8 · 09:10 in the video
Prepare for soldering by gathering a good soldering iron, solder, flux, and helping hands.
Step 9 · 09:19 in the video
If desired, switch out the PH 2.0 power plug on the flight controller for a BT 2.0 plug. Tin the wires by applying a small amount of solder to the iron tip, holding it under each wire, and feeding solder until the wire tip is covered. Add flux to the connector pins to aid solder flow. Set the soldering iron to approximately 370°C and solder the wires to the connector pins. Avoid applying heat for too long to prevent melting the plug.
⚠ Do not spend too much time on any part; excessive heat can damage components, such as melting the plug.
Step 10 · 10:02 in the video
Solder the motor wires to the small pads on the flight controller. Add flux to the pads to make soldering easier. Add a small amount of solder to the iron tip and then to each pad, creating small, round, shiny mounds. Gently place the tinned motor wires over the pads and melt them together. Ensure connections are solid and not bridged. Work slowly around the flight controller until all motors are wired.
⚠ The motor wires are not silicone insulated, so be careful not to melt the insulation when soldering. Consider adding insulation to the ends as an extra precaution.
Step 11 · 10:44 in the video
As an extra precaution for non-silicone motor wires, add insulation (e.g., heat shrink) to the ends of the motor wires, slide them up, and heat shrink them on.
Step 12 · 11:11 in the video
Solder the camera wires (Camera, 5V, Ground). Use the plug that came with the camera, snip it off, and tin the wire ends. Add flux to the camera pads on the flight controller and tin them. Solder the camera wires to the corresponding pads. Once soldered, plug the camera into its connector.
Step 13 · 11:49 in the video
Clean the board after soldering using 99% alcohol and a toothbrush, especially if flux was used.
Step 14 · 11:59 in the video
Use a smoke stopper to test for shorts. Plug the smoke stopper into a battery (it should show a green light), then plug it into the quadcopter. If the light remains green, you're good. If it turns red, there's a short somewhere. Do not skip this step.
⚠ Highly recommend using a smoke stopper. If it turns red, you have a short. This step has saved me before.
⚠ Always use a fire and smoke-proof battery bag (LiPo bag) when charging and storing batteries. Improper handling and/or charging of LiPo batteries can cause fires.
Step 15 · 12:18 in the video
Bolt the camera into the canopy using the bolts that came with the camera. Ensure the battery holders are used on the bottom, and the bolts go all the way through into the canopy.
Step 16 · 12:37 in the video
Secure the motors to the frame using M1.4x3mm bolts. Double-check that the bolts are not too long to avoid damaging the motor windings.
⚠ Ensure bolts are not too long; they can damage motor windings.
Step 17 · 12:52 in the video
Press fit the propellers onto the motors.
Step 18 · 12:58 in the video
To add prop guards for indoor flying, cut the guards off a Meteor 75 Pro frame using flat snips. Use slightly longer bolts (5mm long) to attach the prop guards directly to your frame. Install slightly smaller 45mm props.
Step 19 · 13:36 in the video
Mount the monitor to the controller. Design and 3D print the necessary parts. Super glue the mount to the controller and let it dry for about an hour with some weight on it. Slide the monitor into its 3D printed part and bolt it on.
Step 20 · 14:24 in the video
Wire the monitor directly to the controller's battery for extended use. Use a multimeter to identify the correct positive and negative terminals on the controller's battery compartment. Carefully solder small wires to these terminals. Reassemble the controller and plug the new power lead into the monitor.
⚠ Soldering in tight spaces can be tricky; proceed with caution to avoid shorting components.
Step 21 · 15:14 in the video
Connect the quadcopter to Betaflight for configuration. Plug the quadcopter into a battery, then connect it to your computer via micro USB. Have your remote ready and a fan to prevent overheating.
⚠ Ensure you have a data transfer capable USB cord and necessary drivers installed.
Step 22 · 15:50 in the video
In Betaflight, hold the quad level and click 'Calibrate' in the Setup tab. Systematically move through the tabs on the left. Double-check your ports in the Ports tab to ensure everything is set up correctly.
Step 23 · 16:03 in the video
Go to the Configuration tab. Name your aircraft (e.g., '$59'). Change the 'Max Arm Angle' to 180 degrees to allow arming at any angle. Ensure 'Air Mode' and 'OSD' are turned on. On the right side, enable 'RX Set' to set up a beeper. Click 'Save and Reboot'.
Step 24 · 16:33 in the video
Reconnect to Betaflight. Go to the Power & Battery tab. Set your preferred parameters for battery warnings. For example, lower the warning cell voltage slightly to avoid premature warnings. Click 'Save'.
Step 25 · 16:59 in the video
Go to the P Tuning tab. Switch to 'Betaflight Rates' in the Rate Profile section (accept the warning). Apply your desired rates (e.g., Scarce FPV rates, with Yaw Rate at 1.38). Click 'Save'.
Step 26 · 17:31 in the video
In the Receiver tab, click 'Bind Receiver' to put the flight controller into bind mode. On your Radio Master T8L radio, hold down the 'M' button for about one second until it beeps, indicating it is binding. After the beeps, it should be bound. Verify by moving your sticks and observing the corresponding avatar movement on the screen.
Step 27 · 17:51 in the video
Go to the Modes tab to set up your radio switches. Click 'Add Range' under 'Arm'. On your radio, activate the top-left switch. Slide the yellow slider in Betaflight to cover the yellow bar, which sets this switch for arming. Add 'Angle Mode' to the three-position switch on the upper-left side of the controller. Move the switch to the middle position and set the range. Set up a 'Beeper' on your desired button (e.g., top-right switch on T8L, hold down for continuous beep). Ensure the yellow slider covers the yellow bar for each switch. Click 'Save'.
Step 28 · 18:58 in the video
Go to the Motors tab. **Crucially, ensure your props are NOT on.** Click 'Reorder' and accept the risks. Click 'Start' to have each motor pulse in turn. Click the corresponding motor on the screen as it pulses. Betaflight will automatically reorder the motors. Then, use the 'Wizard' option to switch motor directions. The motors will spin slowly; feel their direction and click the motor number on screen if it's spinning the wrong way (top motors inwards, bottom motors inwards). Hit 'Stop Motors' when done. As a sanity check, arm the quad (throttle all the way down) to ensure motors spin up correctly.
⚠ Absolutely ensure props are removed before performing motor tests in Betaflight. Failure to do so can cause serious injury.
⚠ Keep throttle all the way down when arming the quad for testing.
Step 29 · 20:14 in the video
Go to the Video Transmitter tab. Choose your desired band and channel (note: the monitor does not have raceband). Set the power all the way up to 50mW (max). Click 'Save'.
Step 30 · 20:32 in the video
Go to the OSD (On-Screen Display) tab. Switch to the correct format, which is NTSC. Check the options you want to see on your screen (e.g., battery cell average voltage). Drag the elements into your preferred positions on the screen. Click 'Save'.
Step 31 · 21:06 in the video
Charge your batteries. Use the appropriate battery holders (the canopy's holders fit Turnigy HobbyKing batteries; 3D print custom holders for other 1S lipos like Tattu or Lava). If using a USB charger, use a PH 2.0 plug or a BT 2.0 adapter. If using the Vifly charger, it takes both connector types. On the Vifly, use the right button to cycle charging voltage and the left button to change charging amperage (0.3A to 1.3A). Hold down the left button to start charging.
⚠ Cheap chargers can be unreliable and pose a fire risk. Invest in a quality charger to prevent battery explosions.
⚠ Always charge LiPo batteries in a fire-safe location and inside a LiPo safety bag.
Step 32 · 22:18 in the video
Prepare for your first flight. Turn on your remote. Turn on your quadcopter (it should automatically connect). Turn on your monitor. Use the minus button on the left to change the channel and the plus button on the top left to change the band. Manually search for the correct channel (e.g., B8) to ensure a clear picture. Avoid using the auto-search function as it may find a suboptimal channel. With the throttle down, arm the quad.
Tips from the comments
- Important security notice: those cheap chargers are usually shit. You don't want to skip out on the charger. That's the thing from keeping your batteries from exploding when charging. Also an absolute must have is at least one battery bag (a fire and smoke proof bag/tresor) Even tho those small batteries seem harmless, but those can and will burn down your house, if handled and/or charged improperly. Thus do NOT cheap out on the charger.
- The smokestopper 1s mod is genius too. u da man. (Referring to the smoke stopper usage and the method to remove plug pins).
- You should include the betafpv 1s charger it’s only $12 and charges two batteries and you can use it to test the battery voltage.
- If u wipe tip of solder iron continuously on wet cellulose sponge you will get perfectly clean solder joints.
- Your local library probably has a basic 3d printer.
- FPV without BT 2.0 connector or a goggle idk man the cheap noname motors really are a gamechanger tho great video.
- Guys, if you are hesitating, just do it. We got 3 more years till 2029 and then nobody knows what laws we will get. This might be illegal in the near future while it is so much fun. I ve already spent more than I wanted but I had a blast and so many fun flights and laughs with friends and family. Totaly worth it.
- Sometimes i feel you could be clearer on which side you soldering etc.
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